Grab your paddle... nature is waiting!
Noganosh Lake Provincial Park serves as a perfect interior trip to warm up those paddling muscles, put new gear to the real test, and scratch that interior camping itch. For Chris and I, it was more like, discover that we need to check things like batteries before we leave for our bigger August trip - ie the batteries in our headlamps – and learn that those cups advertised as “indestructible cups” we got from a store - which shall remain nameless - are in fact destructible.
My fiancé, Chris, and I began our trip at Ess Narrow Landing; however, there is an alternate route called Fleming's Landing. I've never used Fleming's Landing, but I've read on forums that it saves you 3km of paddling. At Ess Narrow Landing, you can drive your car up to the water, unload and load the boat and gear and then park the car in a lot a few meters away. One of the more convenient landings that we have ever experienced.
When we arrived on Thursday, we were pounded with rain, rain, and more rain. Nonetheless, Chris and I loaded up the boat, spread the tarp over our bags and then paddled a few meters to take shelter under the bridge. Eventually the rain let up – for the moment – and we paddled South on Dollars Lake until we came to a fork in the waterway and headed East on Kawigamog Lake. We laughed as we saw “Elbow” painted on a rock to our left. It is a marker to help boaters find their way back to Ess Narrow Landing, but in previous trips I've managed to miss this turn more then once on the journey back to the car.
The total distance from the landing to the first portage is 8.6km. Lucky for us this portion of our trip was only rain and no wind. The first portage is in a little bay that is right across from East end of Long Island. In my picture, the little house boat can be seen where a curious dog will greet you. Even if you are not a dog lover, the dog will leave you alone for the most part. The short portage is very easy and well maintained thanks to the ATV that motorboat enthusiasts use on this path; however, watch out for the poison ivy! It is speckled on the sides of the path and at the put in.
Paddle down Smokey Creek for about 1km. The second portage is to the left and, depending on water levels, there are two places to land. Unfortunately for us, it was very mucky from the persistent rain at both spots. On a positive note, we didn't notice any leaches in the muck nor attached to our legs. I find this portage neat in that the water level difference between the two sections of Smokey Creek pretty big. Although, on this visit the dam looked very different and must have collapsed at some point and then built itself back up. There used to be a little dock and ladder that led to a motor boat which rested on a little dock on the next section of Smokey Creek. All of that is gone and a motor boat was parked on shore at the portage.
While putting our packs back into the canoe I waltzed past what I hope was only a gardener snake. Once Chris pointed the snake out and I jumped backwards, counting my blessings for not accidentally stepping on it!
The winding path through water lilies makes for great pictures and there is always a Blue Heron or two. We even caught sight of a Canadian Goose hiding in the weeds, which let us get really close to her. There was a male painted turtle sitting on a log in the drizzle, probably hoping for a sunshine as much as we were.
The third portage, which is about 350 meters, is the longest of the three, but it is as easy as portage one. From here the creek turns into Smokey Lake. As the waters started to get less marshy, Chris caught a glimpse of a moose quickly ducking into the thick vegetation. We sat in the canoe, slowly paddling backwards in hopes of catching another glimpse, but the moose remained hidden.
We continued on, past the fly in fishing camp, Smoky Lake Outpost Lodge and towards Noganosh Lake. Just before Noganosh, there is a trio of rocks in the middle of the water. Every time we pass these rocks a seagull flies into the air, swooping and trying to poop on us. Thankfully, he was not as aggressive as he had been in past visits and just circled us, squawking loudly for the next few hundred meters.
CAMPSITE INFO:
Dollars Lake has two campsites, one on either side.
Kawigamog Lake has three near "The Elbow," on the north side. There are two sites near the Eastern part of Cincinnati Island. I do not recommend the site that is across from the start of Long Island, on the South side of the main land.
Smokey Lake has two sites just past the Outpost Lodge. One is on the island and the second West of the island, on the main land.
The campsites at the start of lake Noganosh fill up fast on the weekends that I've visited the park and I recommend arriving in the middle of the week. There are more sites if you paddle onto the most south end of the park, but we did not find these sites as noticeable from the canoe and recommend the map from Kevin Callan's book, "Weekend Wilderness Adventures in Southern Ontario" published 2004.
Many of the campsites are pretty easy to find due to the make shift benches and tables. In addition, small grills can be found near the fire pits.
The animals will visit you at night. I have been visited by moose twice. One visit was when Chris and I were trying to sleep and the second was when we were sitting by a campfire. On this trip, on our last day, we woke up to the remains of someone's late night fish dinner. In addition, there is the odd mouse at these sites. For the most part, I find the Noganosh campsites well kept in comparison to other non-operating parks, where I've found disgusting amounts of garbage and toilet paper. At one island site, on Noganosh Lake, we were lucky enough to find a toilet box; that's luxury right there, eh!
Despite the constant drizzle and cool nights, Noganosh was still a great experience. It is an easy paddle, I always see wild life, and there are no fees for parking or camping...as of yet.
(June 2011)
Follow Hwy 69 and turn East onto Hwy 522. Drive 27 km and then turn North. A little sign "Ess Narrow Landing" will mark the way. Drive a little ways until you see the landing on your left. The parking lot is just up a hill and on the left as well.
Cost: Non-operating park, meaning no fees to camp and no fees to park your vehicle.
Length:
Give yourself at least 3 to 4 days to enjoy. It takes about 5 to 6 hours to paddle in and get through the 3 portages.
Trip Summary:
June 23 - 26 2011 trip
Put in: Ess Narrow Landing.
Paddled South on Dollars Lake and then East on Kawigamog for a total of 8.6km to first short portage (200m)
Paddled Smokey Creek for 1km
Second Short portage.
Continued Smokey Creek for .69km.
Third Portage is about 300 meters and there was a fallen tree that we had to climb over.
Paddled Smoky Lake for about 3.29km and then the waterway transitions into Noganosh Lake.
Animal Sightings:
Loons, Blue Heron, Turtles, Beaver, Moose, Snakes.