Over a four day period, Chris and I tackled three different sections of the 800 km long Bruce Trail. We visited the Blue Mountain section, Lion's Head, and the Bruce Peninsula. I cannot say that one single place was better than the other because each section was unique and captivating in its own way.
The sidebar consists of parking and campsite details and costs.
The following consists of some memorable moments and highlights from each section we camped at. So....
Grab your hiking boots... nature is waiting!
Nottawasaga Bluffs Conservation Area
map info: Map 22 - Devil's Glen
I sit on the Nottawasaga Bluffs Lookout point, sipping water while watching the last rays of the sun slip below the horizon. I imagine how cold and creepy the many crevices and canyons that we had explored that afternoon would be now. Now being about 10pm. During the day, we explored the Best Caves, Freedom Rock, and the many crevices along the Keyhole Side Trail. The breeze blowing through the canyons provided a welcomed relief from the heat and humidity. Chris called it his natural air conditioner.
The trail itself is easy to hike and the many places to explore make this section of the Bruce Trail a perfect day trip. The first section of the Bruce Trail is well marked provincial signs about agricultural practices, Bruce Trail rules, maps, and most memorably an enormous sign depicting the wildlife that can be found in the area. Jokingly, I had Chris take a picture of me pointing at the deer and fox as if I were really seeing them. I figured the chances of us actually seeing these animals was slim based on the number of day hikers we had come across during our venturing of the main and side trails.
To explore the area is about a 4km walk, but there is so much to see that a day can easily be spent here. There is even the luxury of an outhouse hidden by long grass and bushes and found near the campsite provided by the N.V.C.A The Keyhole Side trail to the west offers lots of rock to climb into and around while the west side provides beautiful grown fields that once served as agricultural land.
Now, it is 11pm and we are listening to the excited yipping and howling of foxes. Down below, domesticated dogs howl back. I was too tired to listen to them past midnight and slept right through until dawn. Foxes howling does not compare to the frightening night sounds of moose crashing through forest and entering and exiting water. Unfortunately, Chris was not as relaxed about how close the howling was to our tent and hardly slept a wink.
Our only regret is missing out on a chamber that exists somewhere further down the escarpment. I had read about it when we had returned home and will definitely return to Nottawasaga Bluffs Conservation Area in the fall.
Pretty River Access Trail
map info: Map 23 - Pretty River
We woke up at 6:30am, ate a quick breakfast, packed up and hiked out of Nottawasaga and back to the car. For parking near the Pretty River Access Trail, I recommend refering to the Bruce Trail website for parking because there are multiple little parking lots. Following our GPS and lacking an Ontario Road Map because my local CAA was out (and I was too cheap to buy one from a gas station) we got lost a lot. We ended up parking somewhere on Grey Road 31. We hiked along the road and then saw the Bruce Trail sign laying down in the ditch that marked a little parking spot and the start of the trail. The Pretty River Access Trail, like Nottawasaga, is another well used section of the Bruce Trail and clearly marked.
We could see evidence of mountain bikers on the path. I assume they use one of the many trails that we saw crossing over the Bruce Trail to reach the sections we were climbing up. There are a few little bodies of water to see and please watch out for the many toads and the odd snake hanging out by the trail. On a side note, if you have not read through the Bruce Trail reference book, it is important to know that in the Collingwood section there are poisons snakes and an antivenin depot. Refer to the most recent booklet or the website for more information about this.
Chris and I made it to a fork in the trail that led to the rest of the main trail and the John Haigh side trail, which is marked with an enormous sign and blue blazed markers. We took the side trail and suddenly stopped, startled by the sign marking the highest point of the Bruce Trail. I shouted, "Success! 540metres high." The sign also contained a map to the Osler Bluff Lookout point, but I was too eager to get to Lion's Head and jump into the water to clean the sweat off of me. So we hiked back to the car and moved onto our next location.
Lion's Head
map info: Map 36 - Lion's Head
What you will see:
- Giant's Cauldron
- Lion's Head Pothole
- Stand on the 45th parallel, which means you are standing at the halfway point between the North Pole and the Equator
- Rock climbers
- an old logging trail
- and last but not least, if you hike to McKay's Habour lots of Poison Ivy!
We entered the trail from Moore St. and enjoyed the short stretch of path that was blanketed with wood chips -- our feet were starting to blister at this point of our trip-- Of course this quickly changed from an easy hike to difficult and rocky. It did not help that I was carrying an extra 30lbs on my back and Chris was carrying closer to 36lbs. There were times when we abandoned our packs to check out the look out points. In addition to the beautiful, and popular hike, the overnight camping spot was perfect. It was quiet, peaceful, and private. We ditched our stuff at a site tucked into the forest and washed our legs in fear of having Poison Ivy on our skin. We then rested on the rocks and dried off while watching a couple of seagulls fishing in the bay.
I am assuming the campsites are used often because the wildlife was very brave. A little red fox approached the site while we were having dinner and not bothered by the racket we were making. For instance, like my excited shouting, "a fox! a fox! The camera, where is the camera!" The fox ignored me and took another few steps closer to us while sniffing the air until he must have decided our Mountain House food was too bland for his palate and he leisurely moved through the trees and in the direction of the next campsite. I am sad to admit that I did not get my picture of the fox.
I hung our food bag, with Chris behind me, asking if I had hung it high enough. I shrugged, responding that I didn't see evidence of bears and was more worried about the fox or a smaller critter burrowing into the bag. Instead, I woke up at about 1am to a ripping and a loud pop, followed by crunching, crunching, and more crunching. Chris was snoring loudly and I felt bad waking him up, but I was afraid to check outside by myself in case it was something larger then a fox destroying our food bag. What I was not counting on was the chubby and persistent raccoon that paid a visit to our food bag. The little stinker climbed up the short tree I chose and dropped down onto the food bag and tore it open. I am glad he enjoyed my granola bars and oatmeal. It took us until about 2am to repair the food bag and find a taller tree so the bag could be hung further down from the branch and away from the trunk. All the while, we could see two little glowing eyes pacing the edge of our campsite, eager for us to return to our tent. In the distance, the racoon's reinforcements were squawking away. Another night where Chris did not sleep much and neither did I.
Bruce Peninsula
Map Info: Map 39 - Emmett Lake
We were sad to leave Lion's Head because there was so much more to see and explore, but the clouds were dark and threatening and we did not want to chance getting caught trying to climb wet rocks with our heavy back packs.
By the time we arrived at Cyprus Lake Campground to pick up our camping permit for Storm Haven, the park was crazy busy and cars were being asked to park at further lots and hike into the Grotto. In other words, book sites early and arrive early if you want to visit the Bruce Peninsula in August.
This was our most difficult of the four hikes we did. However, it was a relief to see very little Poison Ivy along the trail. Chris named all of our sharp upward climbs the Stair Master. In addition to our tired legs, and slightly blistered feet, it began to rain which made the rock and tree roots extra slippery.
By the time we reached our campsite, the sun came out, bringing out the bright blue colour of the water and the whites and yellows of the rock. After we set up, despite how sore we were at this point, we were drawn to the beautiful rock and water and climbed our way as far as we could go to the next rocky beach.
In addition the the beauty of Storm Haven, the metal posts to hoist the food bag up was my favourite feature and I wish every provincial park had these devices. No racoon was going to climb up that thing and drop down onto a food bag! I was not concerned about bears because I only saw a tree that had claw markings on it and no bear scat.
Another favourite aspect of this section was the white noise of waves crashing onto rocks all night long. We slept deep and solid for eight hours and woke up the next day rested and relaxed.
In conclusion, all of these places are not very remote, but give the feeling of isolation and there are always people around, but yet each campsite is private and sublime. For a beginner, these sections would be perfect before a more interior trek into wilderness. I still call myself a canoer/portager, but these sections have opened my eyes to camping the rewards of hiking.
(August 2011)
Trip Summary
August 5, 2011
Access Point: Nottawasaga Bluffs Conservation Area. Turn off of Simcoe Road 124 onto Sideroad 15&16. Drive past Concession 11 and 10 and a small and well marked parking spot will be seen on the South side. This is the entrance to the Nottawasaga Bluffs.
Camping:
We bought two day passes and put them on the dash board and then called the conservation area to let them know that our car was going to be in the parking lot overnight.
Hike approx. 1 km down the side trail, past the Betty Carter Side Trail and at a fork in the path, turn West. Just past a large Bruce Trail sign is the designated camping and beyond that are trails leading to the Keyhole Side Trail.
Cost: To park overnight, we purchased the day pass ($2.00 per person per day)
The site is free, but respect that it is an overnight spot. In addition, there would be too many day hikers passing your campsite to bother staying more than a night.
August 6, 2011
Drove to Pretty Rivery Valley Provincial Park.
Access to the Pretty River Side Trail: There is parking on Osler Bluff Rd, just West of Hwy 33. But there are multiple parking spots so refer to the Bruce Trail website.
We hiked to the highest point of the Bruce Trail and then made our way back to the car and drove to Lion's Head
Cost: The parking was free and no permit was required.
Lion's Head: McKay's Harbour:
Access Point: Parking is on Moore St. and the trail begins on the same side of parking.
We hiked approx. 4km on the main section of the Bruce Trail and camped at McKay's Harbour.
Cost: Parking is free, but plan to arrive early (before 10am) because there are many day hikers and parking fills up quickly.
There is one camping spot marked on the Bruce Trail Map #36, but we found two campsites. These sites are free, but respect that they are only overnight campsites.
August 7, 2011
Storm Haven.
Access Point: Drive down Emmett Lake Rd, which is just off of Hwy 6. This entrance will lead you to the start of Halfway Dump Trail. If you are camping, you will have to drive to Cyprus Lake Campground to pick up the camping permit and pay for parking.
Hiked a little over 3km to Storm Haven.
Cost: We had to book the campsite a month in advance and each night is $9.80 per person and per night. $11.50 to park the car.
Animal Sightings:
Red Fox
Raccoon
For more information visit:
- Bruce Trail Website: http://brucetrail.org/
- And you can find the latest copy of the book in public libraries.
- Bruce Peninsula National Park of Canada
Aventure Angela video is currently in the works.
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